08 Side-by-side comparison
I’ve created a duplicate of the original uncorrected image (left) so that you can see it side-by-side with the corrected image (right). It’s quite a difference, and while Aperture isn’t as sophisticated or as ‘automatic’ as DxO Optics Pro or Lightroom, the results can be just as good. I haven’t been able to remove every last trace of fringing, but it’s a massive improvement already.
09 So is it worth it?
I don’t like chromatic aberration, so I always try to fix it with my most important images, especially those with lots of high contrast detail near the edges, which is where chromatic aberration tends to show up most.
It’s not just big, obvious edges that are the problem, though. In areas with lots of fine details and patterns, chromatic aberration can have a more insidious impact.
You can see it here with this close-up of the left edge of the image, where there are lots of fine twigs against white snow. The more edges you’ve got, the more fringing they’ll produce, and this whole area has taken on a reddish/magenta tinge as a result. Even if you don’t notice the individual fringes at normal viewing distances, you’ll see the false colour they introduce into the snow.
10 More options
If you click the ‘gear’ icon at the top right of the Chromatic Aberration panel, you’ll see a drop-down menu with some useful options. You can opt to ‘brush in’ or ‘brush away’ the chromatic aberration correction – though I think this has limited value because you’ll either want to get rid of it everywhere or not at all.
More usefully, though, you can choose to add the Chromatic Aberration panel to your list of default adjustments – and that’s exactly what I’m going to do.
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